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Schoharie County HISTORICAL REVIEW — Fall 2002

Reminiscences And Remembrances Of Main Street, Cobleskill

Edgar S. Ryder

Edgar S. Ryder, 1849-1938, owned and operated a department store on Main Street, Cobleskill, until his retirement in 1910. A native of Barnerville and graduate of the Schoharie Academy, he wrote another remembrance, titled “Civil War Days in Cobleskill.” That and this article, which was written in 1929, were published in the 1937 Official History of the Town of Cobleskill. They may also have appeared earlier in a local newspaper.

MY earliest recollection of Cobleskill — often called “Stadtchee” — is of coming up from Barnerville with my grandfather to attend the services of the Lutheran church. This church was a fine brick structure, erected in 1794, with an auditorium and galleries on three sides. It was located where George Linster’s store now stands, with a burial ground on the west side of the church and an open shed on the east side extending nearly across what is now Union Street. It has always been a mystery to me how these old worthies – in that day so long ago, when values of nearly everything were so low –could build and pay for this pretentious brick edifice.

In those days, 70 years ago,1 Cobleskill had two streets only, Main and Verona – the latter now Grand Street. In addition there were a few houses on what was then called “Black Rock” – now Quarry Street. These streets were built along the main highways – Main Street on the east and west roads, Grand Street on the north and south, while Quarry Street was along the Pumpkintown road.

Leaving Barnerville – where I spent my boyhood days – on the road to Cobleskill was the farm of Harmon Becker and a little farther on that of his brother, James – both of whom besides owning beautiful farms conducted saw mills on a large scale.

Next was the farm of William Walker, afterwards divided between two sons, George taking the homestead on north side of the road, and Jack the farm on the south side road. It’s interesting to note that recently these farms were again united, and that the great-grandson, William M. Walker, is now controlling both of these fine farms. Next the John Brown farm – afterward sold to John Wieting – and the beautiful and productive farm of Peter Lawyer, and while these farms were all outside the corporation, except the latter, yet on account of post office, store and church affiliations, (their owners were nearly all loyal Lutherans) they were really then, and their descendants now are, classified as Cobleskillians.

I must now take a side trip to Shutts Corners for here were two influential and loyal residents. First, on what was the Conover farm, lived John I. van Dreser with his two sons, Jacob and Henry, who afterward bought from Abram Shutts the large and productive farm which for more than 40 years was known as the Van Dreser place. Mr. Shutts in turn bought the Marcus Borst farm a short distance above Lawyersville with its fine stone mansion now owned and occupied by Floyd Holmes.

While in Shutts Corners, I must not forget David M. Brown, the blacksmith, and Philip Richtmyer, the wagon maker, both of whom made this village their headquarters and were exceptionally loyal Lutherans.

And now, returning to the village limits after leaving the Peter Lawyer farm and crossing the little brook, we came to the place owned by Edwin France and since long known as the Cohn farm: next off in the field lived Asaph Roberts, and I stop here to say that Asaph Roberts and John Brown, both termed “two fisted fellows,” and at dances and other gatherings, usually held in the “ball rooms” over the tavern sheds, when the boys had imbibed too much “hard stuff” and became boisterous and ugly, Roberts and Brown had no trouble in cleaning out the crowd. It was a case of “knock down and drag out” – good old days(?). I ought to say that Mr. Roberts had a large family of boys and girls all of whom made a good name for themselves, of which William W. Roberts was the outstanding son and later, under his plans and supervision, our present water and sewer system was built, aided by his son, Herschel.

On the other side of the street in the rear of what is now the Dairymen’s League plant was the Monroe Shafer farm, now owned by the D. & H. company, there being no houses on the south side of the street from the Lawyer Bridge to what is now East Street. A peculiar circumstance in connection with this farm was that Mr. Shafer was bitterly opposed to the coming of the railroad through this valley and especially to the bonding of the town for $60,000 for the stock of the company. He was reported to have said “that he hoped he would die before he over saw a train rolling across his farm.” His petition was granted, for he passed away on the day before the first passenger train reached the village.

There was an important industry at this point, a brick yard operated by James Blodget, and I am told that he made in his yard all the brick used in the construction of the bank block.2 Most of the quagmire holes left in taking out of the clay for these bricks are now filled up though some still remain.

On the north side of the street, west of East Street, was a small house owned by William Brown and then came the Judge Lawyer farm, in my time owned by David Lawyer and now owned by Morgan van Deusen. The next house was owned by Vern Bellinger’s grandfather, with a blacksmith shop adjacent; no other house on the north side of street until you came to the Lutheran parsonage which they sold many years ago and built a large and beautiful parsonage on the west side of their church. Dr. Frasier owned a house on the east side of the new church, dwarf-like in comparison with that commanding structure. East of the present Lutheran church, about where William Kennedy now resides, was the old “Ike Knib” tavern, quite a pretentious wooden structure with balustrades across the entire front of the second and third floors.

On the south side of Main Street between East Street and Spring Street were two or three houses, one of them owned by Josiah Borst, the undertaker, and in this connection let me say in that day our loved ones were interred at about one-tenth of the cost charged by our modern “funeral directors.”   West of what is now the American hotel were the residences of Benjamin van Wie and a marble yard, John S. Schermerhorn, the village’s leading tailor, and the residence of Judge Holmes. I failed to mention the “Cannon House” near Josiah Borst’s house with the facsimile of a six-pounder cannon above the door, very impressive indeed to a boy.

I’ve mentioned two of the hotels and call attention again to these two and the others that flourished in the 60’s. The leading hotel was the National – now the Augustan, kept by Marcus Sternberg, a man of strong character, who made the mistake of thinking that the town and incidentally, the hotel business, would be ruined when the railroad reached the village. He accordingly sold out and moved to Pennsylvania. Sternberg not only owned the hotel but a goodly number of acres in the very heart of the village, including the hotel gardens which occupied all the space where the bank block now stands as well as all the lands between Union and North streets. I remember he owned a large hop yard on the east of what is now Union Street; also he owned a large plot south of the railroad track including what are now the fair grounds. It would be interesting to know how much Sternberg received for all this property.

Right here let me say that Sternberg – so the story goes – placed $8,000 of this purchase price in a stove for safekeeping, and someone not aware of its being there started a fire in the stove that burned up his money.

Mr. Leray Eldredge was the purchaser of the Sternberg property. He was a man of character, influential in village affairs and while he dispensed much liquor over his bar, used very little himself. He was a natural landlord of the old school and kept what was then known as a “first class tavern.”   Mr. Eldredge had a way of his own in detecting and punishing crooks. There were sheds on three sides of the yard in the rear of the hotel where many farmers and others found a place for their horses. They had been annoyed by petty thieves stealing whips from the carriages while under these sheds and Eldredge had cautioned his “hostlers” to watch out. One day they caught a fellow red-handed; the thief was taken into the office and having no defense offered to pay, but when the sum of $10 was named, he protested saying that “no whip was worth that sum.” Mr. Eldredge quietly replied that he had paid for seven whips that had been stolen and it was $10 or a visit to the office of the justice of the peace. It’s needless to say the visit was not made. The sequel to this incident was that whips were much safer under these sheds for a long time thereafter.

Abe van Patten keep the American Hotel, and was a large, florid, rotund good natured landlord who claimed to be the best temperance man in the village; in explanation he said he sold more water and the general opinion was that he spoke the truth, for on one occasion a customer called for a drink and after swallowing it, disgustedly remarked, “Nine waters and one article.”   Poor Van Patten, returning from Summit where he had been to serve some legal papers – he was deputy sheriff – in driving rapidly over a “brake” or “thankymon” was thrown from his seat and killed.

James Blodget built the Commercial hotel about the time the railroad reached the village and ran it for several years, having abandoned his brick business. “Jim” was a character about town and deserves a special article on his peculiar characteristics.

I have forgotten who was the early proprietor of the United States hotel, but about the time I moved to the village Henry Moyer kept this hotel, a rugged, strong man who prided himself on keeping a good house. John Eldredge bought it later and was said to be the laziest man in town, which he readily admitted.

Before that, there was the hotel already mentioned, the one kept by Isaac Nisbeth. I don’t know how or why this hotel was abandoned – it may be that after the railroad came through the village, fewer teams were used and the other hotels were better located to get the railroad travel.

Off from and at almost right angles to Main Street was what was then called Verona Street, now called Grand Street. Upon this street was the fine residence of Hon. Henry Smith, later a resident of Albany who occupied the residence during the summer and fall.

Charles H. Shaver’s store was then located nearly opposite and a little below the Smith place. I can just remember this store with its pails, kettles and chains suspended from the ceiling. Up at the head of the street about where the Wilson house is now, was the old tannery kept by an exceptionally fine old gentleman – Japheth Kromer. Minard Harder then lived on the east side of the street lower down, the home now being owned by Stanton Sonn and the home of A.C. Smith (afterward proprietor of National hotel), adjoined.

In 1859 Minard Harder bought out David Anthony who had a small plant on Grand Street, under the hill, manufacturing threshing machines. This plant was improved and enlarged, adding the manufacture of fanning mills, dog powers, land rollers, etc., which he continued for forty years, being succeeded by his son, George, and which is now continued under the name of Harder Refrigerator Corp.

Returning down Verona Street to Main the most striking thing in sight was the old pond and saw mill with its array of old logs, loose lumber and slabs – a dam site in more ways than one.

In the triangle just in the rear of where the fountain now stands was the large white store conducted by Charles Courter, later by Courter & Harder and later still by Dow & Westfall. After the building of the “new brick block” in 1873, Dow & Westfall moved into one of the four stores in this block, Abe Borst taking possession of this old white store conducting a successful furniture business there until he built the large and commodious furniture store on Division Street now occupied by John Myers.

In the early 70’s, Darius Wood moved to Cobleskill and built two notable (?) buildings, one on each side of the pond. The one, of three stories, first floor used as stores, second and third as dwellings or “flats” – quite pretentious with its ornate balustrades in front. The other building on the south side of the pond was the most disreputable I have ever seen. Constructed as it was of slabs, old knotty boards, it was indeed an “eyesore” for many years; reports had it that it was a “spite” affair, as this building stood nearly in front of Dr. Cross’ office and residence – as to this statement, “this deponent sayth not.”   Leo Bitner, a shoemaker and a mighty good one, lived next to Dr. Cross’ residence facing the pond and next to him lived William Farquher who was an undertaker. I suppose we would have to call him a “mortician” in these days.

Continuing up Main Street west of Grand stood the village schoolhouse near where the engine house now stands, and opposite, on the bank of the pond, was an old wagon shop and next Ed Purcell’s blacksmith shop. Surely, with the old saw mill and yards, these shops and the old slab building, we had a very pleasing picture for the very center of our village(?). Only those who have lived to see the transformation from this ugly and unsightly place to the beautiful Centre Park of today, can appreciate the change.

West of the engine house stood the home of the Index, which was formerly the schoolhouse and whose editor was W. H. Weeks.

Along in the early 60’s there was a Republican paper published here by Matt Freeman called the Jeffersonian, but it was generally known as “The Cobleskill Blazer,” I presume from the fact that it was a Republican paper published in what was a very strong Democratic community – and Matt was a hard hitter.

Living as I did when a boy on the eastern end of the town, I was not as familiar with the west end as of the east, but I remember very well that McHench had a sash and blind factory which was located on the lower side of what is now known as Clinton Circle just in the rear of Mr. Berger’s undertaking rooms. This factory and its lumber yards burned in the late 60’s making a tremendous blaze, and my father bundled his boys in the wagon and we reached the scene in time to see the collapse of the building and to witness the frantic efforts that were made to secure more men to man the brakes of the old hand fire engine and save as many of the lumber piles as possible.

I can’t remember how or when the old Overpaugh-Courter factory was built on South Grand Street, but I’m quite sure it was successor to the McHench plant, and for many years this later factory did a large and successful business.

As to the men of influence in the village in my early days, I remember that there was a strong coterie of lawyers, influential in both town and county affairs: “Billy” Young, Charles Holmes, John Pindar, William C. Lamont and a little later John van Schaick.

A little preceding this, Hon. Henry Smith and Joseph H. Ramsey had made for themselves a state-wide reputation; the former moving to Albany, retaining his summer residence here and afterward became Speaker of the Assembly – a very forceful and eloquent advocate; while Mr. Ramsey who had also moved to Albany, by his persistent and indefatigable efforts, put through the Albany and Susquehanna Railroad, becoming the president and for long years recognized as the “father” of this road.

As to the businessmen of that day – outstanding were Charles Courter and Minard Harder, then the other strong men included: D.H. Shaver, Wm. Shaver, Peter Swart, D.J. Dow, S. J. Thatcher, “Jock” Faulker, Mart Watson, M. Cohn, Zenas Shafer, Anson Rose, J. H. Diefendorf, Lon Harder, Louis Hess, Jay Dickinson and Matthew Burhans and many others whose names I have forgotten, but I must not forget “Jimmy” Lawyer, grocer and meat market, a unique character in many ways, a man who achieved a competence and was said to have been able to spit and swear in four languages.

As to the physicians, the oldest, Dr. Lawyer, had been a surgeon in the navy; Dr. David Frazier, a strong character and supervisor for several years; Dr. Cross, somewhat younger than the others, but a fine physician; later came F. P. Beard and J. J. Miller, the latter a former successful minister, but it was said he concluded it more profitable to treat bodies than souls. My opinion is that he was somewhat disappointed in the final results.

I must not forget Feek’s carriage factory which stood well down in the field south of the railroad on what is now the northern part of the fair grounds. I judge that he turned out a goodly number of fine carriages. Afterward he sold the business to Tom Pruyn who managed it successfully for many years.

Continuing up West Main Street we came to the Coburn farm, then owned by Nicholas Russell, the house and barn of which stood on the hill where the State School3 is located. The road then ran nearly straight over the hill instead of around as it does now. My vivid recollection of this farm was the fact that its owner, on a raw, cold, winter day, went out and hanged himself, making an impression on my boyish mind that has endured for 70 years.

In my early days there was only one bank in Schoharie County and that was the old Charles Goodyear bank of Schoharie. In 1864, Mr. Courter and other businessmen of this section organized the First National Bank of Cobleskill and for many years thereafter these two banks accommodated the business interests of the county. Later banks were established in Middleburgh, Richmondville, another one in Cobleskill and one in Sharon Springs, six in all, and all doing a large, conservative and successful banking business. As an indication of the changed conditions, in those days the assets of the two banks were figured in thousands, now the assets of each of the six banks run into the millions.

I ought to refer to the leading mechanics and artisans of that early date. First were the masons, men who could manipulate a trowel in heavy stone foundations and then spread the plaster on the walls with no thought of skimping or slighting the work. There was Paul Turk, Vogel, Murphy and Linster – their work endures and will for many years to come. George Glair who could build a house – it was said – in a day and a night, Chester Letts who built many of the finest houses in the village and Bender the “Transmogifier” a wonderful manipulator of the paint brush who could put all the colors of the rainbow on a house and then some. On reflection when we consider the riot of color that obtains along so many lines today, I conclude that he was 50 years in advance of his time.

Then there was Gideon Young and DeWitt France, the early insurance agents. I think France was the first chief of police of our village, while Gideon liked nothing better than to head a Buckskin Band with drawn sword, that had been used in some previous war; while Aaron Malick could play the fiddle, the fife or the big bass drum with equal dexterity.

Jerry Borst, a harness maker and a good one, employing several men, while his son, Silas – I think now living in Cortland – was the best “snare drummer” in this whole section.

A notable character was Ave Loucks, blessed with one of the finest tenor voices I have ever heard. An Irishman hearing him sing at a singing school at East Cobleskill arose from his seat with this exclamation – “Loucks! Loucks! Ye have the sweetest voice of any mon from Punches Kill to the North Pole.” Poor Loucks, we draw the mantle of charity, for in those days the customs and habits of the people were entirely different from those of today.

There was another character that deserves mention – a colored man who had the respect of all his townsmen – “Dominie Tom” – so called because he was mighty in prayer, in testimony and in song, who attended every camp meeting and other religious gathering and whose rich melodious voice was heard in praise unto his God late at night, on his journeying toward his home.

I have referred to the old Lutheran church which was erected in 1794, the brick being imported from Holland, so it was said. The present beautiful edifice was erected in 1864 with its graceful spire pointing heavenward. This spire – 165 feet high – is exceptionally well proportioned and I hope that it may always remain as a monument to those who erected it, and that no ruthless hand may be laid upon it.

I think it worthy of notice that the first Sunday school ever held in our village was organized and “mothered” by “Aunty” Schaeffer, wife of Col. Peter Schaeffer, in the old Lutheran church, the date of which unfortunately I am unable to give.

The Reformed people had a church here for many years – but the services were abandoned long before my time. Afterward this building was used as a public hall. Later this building was converted into stores, one of which was used by J. W. Lawyer & Co. – now Smith’s market.

The Methodists were late in coming to Cobleskill, they having organized churches in nearly all the villages around about many years before locating here.

A small congregation was organized in 1854 and met in the home of John S. Schermerhorn, later in the home of Minard Harder. Their first frame church was erected in 1855.

The Catholics built a small church on Grove Street – abandoned it, later it was converted into a dwelling and still later this building was destroyed by fire. A few years afterward they built the present fine church on Elm Street.

As to the ministers who served the Cobleskill churches of other days, my earliest recollection of Lutheran pastors is of Dominie Strobel who was considered a very excellent preacher. Then followed Porter and later Ludden under whose pastorate the present edifice was built. I think Mr. Keller succeeded Ludden and he in turn by Mr. Humperly.

As to the Methodist ministers – Cobleskill in my boyhood days was a part of the Mineral Springs circuit where several charges were supplied, in this case by two ministers, one of whom lived at Mineral Springs and the other, for a time at least, in Barnerville. Dominie Sands was one of these pastors in my boyhood days. Hall and Hanna, whose administration occurred during the exciting period of the Civil War, Hall being an ardent supporter of Lincoln’s administration, some Southern sympathizers sheared all the hair from his horse’s tail. After this village had erected a Methodist church it was served by Grant, Gates and Walker in succession, all of whom were exceptionally strong preachers and whose ministrations resulted in building up the church in both members and influence.

I ought not to forget Rev. Philip Wieting – while never a pastor of the Lutheran church here – he belonged to the Franckean Synod, while the Cobleskill church belonged to the Hartwick – yet he was a man of such power that his influence prevailed this entire section.

I know little about the Cobleskill school of that day only that the old white schoolhouse stood opposite the pond and that D. W. Durrow was for long years its very successful teacher. Later when I came to Cobleskill in 1872 “Aunt” Agnes Smith and Almeda Brown were the outstanding teachers.

In the late 60’s a new brick schoolhouse was erected in the rear of the United States hotel sheds. I question whether this building ever had any plan for “it was without form or comeliness.” The construction was faulty and the whole rear wall fell out before it was ready for occupancy.

Before bringing these rambling recollections to a close, I ought to refer to moral and religious conditions that existed 50 or 60 years ago. The truth is that the village of Cobleskill had an unenviable reputation for civic righteousness. I can recall very few of the businessmen on Main Street who were church members and of the legal and medical fraternity, none. The trend was all the other way. The village always had seven or eight drinking places and as the population increased, more than a dozen; in addition there was a wholesale liquor store.

An incident that occurred in a crowded railroad train (for the Albany train was often crowded in those days) will give a better idea of the reputation we enjoyed (?) than a long dissertation on the subject. A judge arose from his seat in the car and in a loud voice asked, “Is there any gentlemen from Cobleskill in this car?” Immediately half a dozen men stood up and the judge said, “Lend me your corkscrew, please.”   I contrast these conditions with those that prevail today, the large membership in the churches and the liberality of our people in the support of every good cause. These show conclusively that we have come a long way since the days of which I have written.

I know how imperfect my description of these days has been, for I haven’t touched on the turbulent Civil War days and how the interest of the people became more tense as the deadly struggle went on, nor have I referred to the “great fire” that occurred in 1873 and the heroic efforts of our firemen to check it, both outstanding events in our history. But already my paper is too long drawn out, and I may, if the “spirit moves,” have something to say about them later.

P. S. – I have submitted these “Recollections” to Mr. J. Schuyler Lawyer, one of our oldest residents, who was born and has always lived here, and he says they are substantially correct, as he remembers them. Written in 1929.


1. 1859.

2. Northeast corner of Main and Grand streets.

3. Now SUNY Cobleskill.

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